Mastersingers USA in Central Europe – 2007

Sunday July 1, 2007
Mass in Bratislava

Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, is about a 3-hour drive from Budapest.  After checking in to the Crowne Plaza (the best hotel on our tour), we had a bit of free time before assembling for the 5 o'clock mass at Konkatedrála Dóm Sv. Martina (St. Martin's Concathedral).  (Note that a "concathedral" is a cathedral that shares the status of being the seat of a bishop with another cathedral.)  Construction of this ancient church began in the 13th century, and it was essentially completed in the mid-14th century.  For nearly 300 years, this church was the site of the coronations of the kings of Hungary.  And as musicians, we were interested to learn that it was the site of the first performance of Beethoven's "Missa Solemnis."

St. Martin's Concathedral - source: Nicolas Janberg	Inside view of the concathedral

Significantly, we were told that this would be the first time (in centuries?) that any singing group would be allowed to sing from behind the altar, and this seemed like an expression of confidence that we wanted to live up to.  The coordination with the priest and his assistant went well throughout the mass as we sang the full "Missa Regina Coeli," "O Vos Omnes," and "Locus Iste."  After the mass, we repositioned ourselves on the steps in front of the altar and gave a "mini-concert" of some of the rest of our repertoire.  Most of the congregation stayed for this special presentation.  Afterwards it was dinner on our own in some of the excellent restaurants in the picturesque old town (Staré Mesto) of Bratislava.

Old Town Bratislava	The striking "New Bridge" as seen from the Old Palace

The balance of our visit to Bratislava was taken up with rehearsals at the hotel, a guided tour of the palace, and a walking tour of the old city.  I think our overall impression was that Bratislava is a city on the move, one of the smallest and most compact of the European capitals, and a place well worth visiting again.